The Enchanting Le Palais Gharnata Restaurant in Marrakesh
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
Oh! Marrakesh! Oh! Rose between the palms,
Your days are pleasant and happy,
Unequaled is your beauty, t’is a song
So wrote a Moroccan bard whose words were put to music and sung in the streets of that venerable city.
Yet, these lines describing Marrakesh are not an exaggerated fantasy in the mind of a poet. Rather, they will portray this ancient metropolis – one of Morocco’s four imperial capitals and known as the ‘pearl of the country’s south’.
Situated in the middle of a fertile plain and surrounded by huge olive, orange and palm groves which are overshadowed by the snow-peaked Djebel Toubkal in the High Atlas, the city has a fairytale setting. Its splendid reddish buildings, colorfully dressed inhabitants, ageless craftsmen at work, renowned Jamaa el Fna, and above all its historic remains complement its location and make it one of the rarest of cities. Once visited it is never forgotten.
Travelers have written that the ancient tombs and palaces which dot the old town are the most captivating of its attractions. A number of the palaces after being brought back to their days of glory have been renovated into magnificent tourist-oriented restaurants. Topping the list by far is the restored former 16th-century palace of a one-time vizier – now Le Palais Gharnata Restaurant.
A decade back, when I first walked into that fairyland dining place, I thought that I was in a world of fantasy. Before I was a palace restaurant which could have easily come out of the Arabian Nights. Exquisite ceilings, carved from cedar wood and delicately painted overlooking walls and columns half covered with tiles of seven colors, topped by a beautiful fine filigree put me in a storybook setting. The dazzling decor overpowered me with the feeling that I was back in Moorish Spain.
A few minutes later, when I talked to Bouchra Elamrani, daughter of the owner and manager of Le Palais Gharnata, I found that my daydreams were, in fact, a reality. The palace had been built in the 16th century by Andalusian Muslims fleeing from the persecution of the Spanish Inquisition.
Some 35 years ago, the Elamrani family, which had owned the palace from the 17th century, brought it back to its original character. Today, its magical Moorish-Andalusian atmosphere gives it a bewitching beauty which can easily inspire poets.
Amid this haunting aura, diners can enjoy Moroccan folklore and cooking at its best. In the words of Bouchra, at that time, the beautiful manageress, “Here, you can truly dine in the traditional Moroccan dishes of Hareera, Bastilla, Mechoui or Tajine while being entertained by acrobats, folkloric and oriental dancers, and musicians.” Bouchra continued, “The fine art of Moroccan gastronomy is a trademark of our restaurant”. A few days later while I feasted my succulent Mechoui, I saw with my own eyes and was entranced with these diversions a symbol of a good Moroccan meal.
Le Palais Gharnata, located in Quartier Riad Zitoun Jdid, 5,6 Derb El Arsa, deep in the old city near the well-known historic Dar Si Said, is a large two-level restaurant which can seat up to 900 diners. On the lower level, there are two rooms. As you enter, in the middle of the smaller first room is an Italian 14th-century marble fountain. The spacious second room has a marble floor and is very impressive. The upper level is only utilized on special occasions after the lower level is filled. Both levels have their own spotless kitchens where a dozen cooks prepare the epitome of Moroccan delights.
A few years ago, Bouchra, was married and left the restaurant. Her brother Si Muhammad now manages the restaurant, but nothing has changed. Package tours come in large groups to glory in the atmosphere and dine in one of the top gourmet eating places in Marrakesh.
Full course meals are offered in two kinds. For the opulent and influential, like the ones who stay at the La Mamounia, one of the world’s most luxurious hotels, a royal feast costs US$50. For the usual clients, the cost is about US$25.
More than any other person, for years, the one responsible for the restaurant’s delicious food of which I partook, was Bouchra’s elegant mother Lalla Asmae Elamrani whose family and that of her husband’s, according to their daughter, are both descendants of the Prophet. Today, her traditions carry on.
During my previous visit when I asked Lalla Asmae what dish she would recommend which would be simple to prepare and tasty, Mechoui was her choice.
ASMAE’S MECHOUI – STEAM ROASTED LAMB
Serves about 6 to 8
To prepare this dish a large double boiler with a perforated top or a large couscousiére is required.
In Morocco, the lamb is eaten by tearing out pieces of the meat with the fingers, then dipping them in the salt and cumin before putting them in the mouth. However, salt and cumin to taste can be sprinkled over the lamb which then can be served in the regular fashion.
1 lean lamb leg, about 4-6 pounds
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 tablespoon dried thyme
10 cloves garlic, crushed
2 medium onions
1 small bunch parsley, thoroughly washed
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Boiled potatoes, enough to go around the platter on which lamb shoulder is placed
A handful of fresh mint leaves
Thoroughly wash lamb leg and set aside.
In a bowl, stir together the oil, salt, pepper, thyme, and garlic then rub the mix all around the leg. Refrigerate for 3 hours.
Place leg in the top part of the double boiler or couscousière. Cover leg with a wet clean white tea towel. Place the double boiler or couscousiére lid over top and set aside.
Fill the bottom part of the double boiler or couscousiére 3/4 full of water. Add onions and parsley. Bring to boil, then fit top part containing the leg over top.
Cook over medium heat for 2 1/2 hours or until meat is well done (when meat can be pulled apart with the fingers), then remove lamb leg and allow to cool for 5 minutes.
Rub with butter and lemon juice. Place in baking tray and broil for about 10 minutes or until leg begins to brown. Transfer to a serving platter, then place potatoes all around. Decorate with mint and serve.
Contact Information
Le Palais Gharnata (The Gharnata Palace)
5,6 Derb El Arsa
Riad Zitoun Jdid
Marrakesh 40040, Morocco
Tel: +212-524-389-615 or +212-524-389-510
E-mail: contact@gharnata.com
Website: http://www.gharnata.com/en/index.html
