Arab Dumplings That I Love
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
Historically, dumplings, an ancient food found in the kitchens of many lands, in my view, reach there epitome in two dishes found in the Greater Syria area. This is, perhaps, because of my own experiences during my youth in western Canada. When cold winter months rolled around, a steaming hot bowl of Sheesh Barak (Dumplings in Yogurt) or a pot of Kubbat Laymoon Hamid (Lemon Dumplings) defusing their mouth-watering aroma through our kitchen, has left a lasting impression in my culinary world.
In the years to come, I prepared these two dishes many times and every time they had the same appeal – a wholesome and satisfying taste. Like numerous other non-sweet dumplings, they served to extend small amounts of meat into gourmet meals. They are very useful dishes for the poor with large families like ours during the Depression years.
A simple and economical food, these two dumplings of the Greater Syria area, flavored with herbs and spices, have their relatives in other parts of the world. They are related to Italian filled pasta, the German Spatzle (boiled noodles), Polish and Ukrainian Usrke, Pierogi, and Varenyky – various types of cheese, mushroom, and vegetable-filled dumplings, and the many Chinese dumplings, filled with various types of meats or vegetables.
Yet, in spite of the fact that I have savored many of these types of dumplings from the four corners of the world, my favorites still are Sheesh Barak and Kubbat Laymoon Hamid.
When I cook these dishes I always tend to overeat and these savory dumplings overwhelm tending to my diet and the days of my youth are again vivid in my mind.
Dumplings in Yogurt –Sheesh Barak
Serves about 8
In this recipe, precautions must be taken in order that the yogurt does not curdle or separate. This is done by gently stirring in one direction over low heat until it comes to a gentle boil.
Dumplings
1 pound fresh or frozen dough, thawed
1 pound ground beef or lamb
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons pine nuts or slivered almonds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Yogurt Sauce – Labaniyya
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups plain yogurt
3 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons dried mint
Form dough into 3/4 inch in diameter balls, then cover with a tea towel and allow to rest for 1 hour.
In the meantime, make a filling by stir-frying meat in butter until it becomes light brown, then add the remaining dumpling ingredients and stir-fry for 5 minutes.
Roll out dough balls to make circles 1/8 inch thick. Place 1 level teaspoon filling on each circle, then fold it over filling and pinch edges to seal. Fold in half again to shape dumpling like a thimble and pinch to close. Place dumplings on a greased tray and brown lightly, turning them over once, then set aside.
To make sauce, place eggs and yogurt in a saucepan, then stir until well blended. Add cold water; then stir well. Cook over medium heat and gently stir in one direction until mixture comes to boil, then reduce heat to low.
In the meantime, place butter in a small saucepan and melt then add the garlic, salt, and mint. Stir-fry over medium heat until the garlic turns golden brown, then stir garlic mixture into yogurt sauce. Place dumplings in sauce, then cover and cook for 15 minutes over medium/low heat. Serve piping hot.
Lemon dumplings – Kubbat Laymoon Hamid
Serves about 8
I remember as a youth, how I waited in anticipation for my mother to make this delicious dish.
Kubba Dumplings
1 pound fresh lean beef or lamb
1/2 cup fine burghul, soaked for 15 minutes in warm water, then drained
by pressing water out through a fine strainer.
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon crushed dried mint leaves
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Lemon Dumpling Sauce
1/2 pound lamb or beef, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon pepper
8 cups of water
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 19 oz can chickpeas, drained
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup lemon juice
Place meat in a food processor and process until well ground, then add remaining ingredients in the ‘Kubba Dumpling’ portion’ and process for a minute longer. Form into marble size balls to make dumplings, then set aside.
Place all the ‘Lemon Dumpling Sauce’ ingredients, except lemon juice, in a saucepan and bring to boil, then cover and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes. Add the kubba balls, then cook for another 40 minutes. Add lemon juice, then cook for another 10 minutes or until kubba is well cooked, adding more water if necessary. Serve hot.
