Middle Eastern Foods that Kept Us Healthy During the Depression Years: Part 2
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
The following dishes are a few of those we enjoyed during the Depression years. The spices and herbs that I include in the ingredients were often not available and my mother had to substitute others on hand.
Qawarma
With refrigeration, the need for qawarma in the Greater Syria area of the Middle East has been almost eliminated. Except in some isolated villages, one rarely comes across a family making this tasty dish.
2 1/2-pounds melted beef fat (not suet) or margarine
5-pounds lean beef (any cut), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
(mutton may be substituted for beef)
5 teaspoons salt
2 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
Place the melted fat or margarine in a pot and heat, then stir in meat, salt and pepper.
Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring occasionally to make sure the meat does not stick to the bottom of the pot, until the meat is well cooked – until meat sticks to a wooden spoon.
Allow to cool, then pour into earthenware utensil or glass jars, making sure the meat is covered with 1/2-inch of fat. Discard the remaining fat. Cover the containers and store the qawarma in a cool place and always return to a cool place after use.
Note: When a recipe calls for qawarma, melt as much qawarma as needed in a recipe, then discard the fat.
There is no need to refrigerate qawarma if it is well cooked. If the utensils or jars are well sealed the qawarma will stay usable for at least a year. Also, very small pieces of fried meat may be used as a replacement for qawarma.
Yogurt–Laban
Even though in our homesteading days yogurt was unknown to our neighbours, today it is available at every food market in North America. However, to prepare it is a simple matter.
2 quarts milk (any type of milk)
4 tablespoons plain yogurt
Place milk in a pot and bring to boil, then lower heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl. Allow to cool to lukewarm temperature. (You will know that the milk is cool enough if your finger can remain in the liquid to the count of ten.)
Thoroughly stir in the yogurt, then cover. Wrap bowl with a heavy towel and allow to stand for 8 hours. Refrigerate overnight before serving or to use as an ingredient in other food.
Note: Always set aside a part of the yogurt for the next batch.
Kishk
Makes about 4 pounds kishk
In the larger urban centres of North America there is little need to make kishk from scratch. Most Syrian, Lebanese and Armenian stores carry it packaged. However, for the adventurous, try this recipe and you will feel the pulse of the ancient Syrian culinary arts.
2 quarts plain yogurt
3-pounds coarse burghul, rinsed, drained, then allowed to stand
1/2 hour
4 pounds solidified yogurt (labna) – prepared by placing
Yogurt (see recipe above) in a cloth bag and drained for 48 hours
2 tablespoons salt
Mix the 2 quarts of yogurt with the burghul and let stand for 6 hours. Add 2 pounds of the labna and the salt, then combine well and cover. Allow fermenting in a warm place for 9 days.
Each day add a little of the remaining 2 pounds of
solidified yogurt and stir. (Make sure the solidified yogurt is divided evenly for the 9 days.)
Roll into small balls then spread on a white sheet in the sun to dry. (For fast drying, balls can be dried in an oven over very low heat, but the taste will not be the same.)
After drying to a consistency of half-wet, put through a grinder twice, then return to dry in the sun, spreading out thinly on a white sheet. Rub between the palms of the hands occasionally to break up the small balls then stir the kishk by hand. When the kishk is bone dry, divide into fine and coarse by rubbing through a sieve.
Note: Solidified yogurt or labana can be purchased in Middle Eastern markets. Also, kishk need not be refrigerated. However, it should be stored in a cool dry place.
Eggs with Qawarma—Bayd Ma’a Qawarma/Serves 4
In the past eggs with qawarma was perhaps the most common breakfast food among the villagers of Syria and Lebanon. To me, the many modern early morning foods cannot compare with this simple dish.
4 heaping tablespoons qawarma, fat removed
4 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
In a bowl, thoroughly combine qawarma, eggs, salt and pepper.
Melt butter in a frying pan, then add the qawarma-egg mixture. Stir quickly over low heat until the eggs are cooked. Serve immediately with toast and coffee.
Drained Yogurt Pies with Qawarma–Fatayer Labna Ma’a Qawarma/Makes 12 Large Pies
In the Middle East, there are various types of vegetarian and meat pies. For me, this yogurt pie with qawarma is at the top of the list.
1-pound frozen dough, thawed according to package directions, or equivalent amount of home-made dough
1 cup qawarma, fat removed
1 1/2 cups labna (see instructions on how to make labna in Kishk recipe above) (cream cheese maybe substituted for the labna)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Cut dough into 12 equal pieces. Roll into balls, then cover and allow to rest for one hour.
In the meantime, prepare a filling by thoroughly combining the remaining ingredients.
Roll out each ball to a 4 to 5-inch round or larger if desired. Place one heaping tablespoon of filling on each round, then fold over shaping it into a triangle and close firmly by pinching the edges.
Place the pies in a well-greased baking pan, then bake in a 400o F preheated oven for 10 to 15 minutes or until pies turn golden brown. (If a darker colour is desired, brown lightly under the broiler.)
Optional: Brush the tops of pies with butter, then serve hot.
Chick Pea Stew with Qawarma–Yakhnat Hummus Ma’a Qawarma/Serves 6
During the Depression, the spices included were often not available and were replaced by others.
2 teaspoons salt
1 medium size eggplant, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes
5 tablespoons cooking oil
1 medium size onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup qawarma, fat removed
2 cups cooked chickpeas
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 1/2 cups water
Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the salt on eggplant pieces, then place in a strainer with a weight on top and allow to drain for 1/2 hour.
Heat oil in a saucepan then sauté onion and garlic over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add qawarma and eggplant, then sauté over high heat for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding more oil if necessary. Stir in chickpeas, the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, pepper, cumin, cayenne, tomatoes and water, then barely cover with water and bring to boil. Cover, turn heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes or until eggplant is cooked, adding more water if necessary. Serve hot with cooked rice.
Kishk Soup/Serves 6
Kishk soup can be cooked without meat or with a little meat. Meatless, it is very appetizing. On the other hand, meat gives it a little more zest.
2 tablespoons butter
1/4-pound beef or lamb, cut into small pieces
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup kishk, dissolved in 1/2 cup of water
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
5 cups boiling water
Melt butter in a saucepan then sauté meat and onions oVer medium heat until meat browns. Stir in garlic, then stir-fry for a few minutes. Stir in kishk and stir-fry for a moment, then add the remainder of the ingredients and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cover, then turn heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve hot with toast.
Note: Makes an excellent breakfast dish, especially on cold winter mornings.
Kishk Dip/Serves 6-8
Life is strange. We are always looking for that which is beyond our reach. In my youth, when mother prepared the numerous kishk dishes, I longed for the unattainable: bologna and sardines whose costs were beyond our pocketbook. Later in life, when the harsh years of poverty were but a memory, I pined for the many kishk dishes which I had once disdained.
1 cup kishk
Cold water
1/4 cup olive oil
3/4 cup finely chopped onions
1/2 cup finely chopped tomatoes
a few sprigs of parsley
Place the kishk in a small bowl, then gradually add cold water and stir until the kishk reaches the consistency of thick cream. Transfer to a flat serving platter, then sprinkle with olive oil. Spread onions and tomatoes evenly over top, then decorate with parsley and serve.
Kishk Salad/Serves 8
In the 1930s, this very healthy salad was on our daily menu during the summer months when dandelions and spinach were available.
1 small bunch dandelions or an equal amount of spinach,
thoroughly washed and chopped
1 small bunch green onions, finely chopped
1 large tomato, finely chopped
1/2 cup kishk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
In a salad bowl, thoroughly mix dandelions or spinach, onion, tomato, kishk, salt and pepper, then stir in olive oil and lemon juice. Serve immediately.
Cucumber and Yogurt Salad–Khiyar bi-Laban/Serves 4-6
Whatever the season, we often enjoyed this refreshing dish in our prairie home. The years have not dulled my taste for this simple yet delectable dish.
4 cups plain yogurt
2 medium cucumbers, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup pressed chopped mint leaves or 2 tablespoons dried-
crushed mint
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Thoroughly combine all the ingredients in a bowl, then serve.
Burghul and Parsley Salad -Taboul/Serves 6-8
Taboula, which was one of our favorites during the summer months on the prairies has always been the top salad of the Middle East. So common is this dish today in North America that its name appears as an entry in English dictionaries.
1/2 cup fine burghul, soaked for 10 minutes in cold water, then
drained by pressing water out through a fine strainer.
2 medium bunches of parsley, thoroughly washed, stemmed, then very finely chopped
1 cup finely chopped green onions
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
2 medium tomatoes, finely diced
4 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Place burghul and all vegetable ingredients in a bowl, then thoroughly mix and set aside.
Combine remaining ingredients then pour over burghul and vegetables. Toss and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.
Burghul Tartare or Meat Patties – Kubba/Serves 6-8
In the Greater Syria area of the Middle East, this dish is the king of foods. My taste for kubba has never faded with the years. As in the Depression years, it remains one of my most favourite foods.
1 1/2-pounds fresh lean beef or lamb
1 cup fine burghul, soaked for 15 minutes in warm water, then
drained by pressing water out through a fine strainer.
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon dried mint
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Place meat in a food processor and process until well ground then add remaining ingredients and process into thick paste. Spread on a platter and sprinkle with olive oil. This should be served immediately.
Note: You can also form the kubba into patties and deep-fry, then serve hot.
Chickpea Dip – Hummus bi-Tahini/Serves 6-8 as a Side Dish
This dish is a favored breakfast food and is served as an appetizer or side dish with almost every meal throughout the Middle East. Its consumption is fast spreading in Western Europe and North America under the name hummus – an Arabic word which is today part of the English dictionaries.
2 cups well-cooked chickpeas (they should be tender enough so that they can easily be mushed with your fingers)
1/4 cup water
4 tablespoons tahini (a sesame seed paste, found in
Middle Eastern markets and health stores)
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cumin
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
In a blender, place the chickpeas, water, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, salt and cumin, then blend until a smooth paste is formed, adding more water if necessary.
Spread on a serving platter, then sprinkle with the oil and decorate with the mint.
Note: When served as an appetizer, it should be eaten with raw vegetables, bread sticks or Arabic bread (pita).
Falafel/Serves 6-8
Falafel is a vegetarian dish from the Middle East that is now popular in North America. It is a delicious food that can be served as part of the main course, or with Arab bread (pita) as sandwiches, or fried in little balls and served as hors d’oeuvres.
2 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained.
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1 cup finely chopped green onions
1 cup finely chopped parsley
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 egg
oil for frying
Place chickpeas in a food processor then process until a very thick paste is formed. Add the remaining ingredients, except the oil, then process further until smooth dough is formed. Form into small flat patties or, if for hors d’oeuvres, into small balls, then set aside.
Heat oil in a saucepan, then fry patties or balls over medium heat until they turn golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels, then serve hot.
Note: When served as sandwiches, the patties should be placed in Arab bread (pita) half-loaves in a bed of chopped tomato and chopped lettuce.
Lentil Pottage–Mujaddara/Serves 4-6
Mujaddara is one of the preferred dishes, which the Arab immigrants brought with them to North America. Yet, they never served it to their guests. Since it costs only a few cents to prepare, the old country tradition of not serving this delightful dish to visitors was never forgotten. Extremely healthy, mujaddara provides the body with vital nutrients.
1 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed
6 cups water
1/4 cup coarse burghul, rinsed
4 tablespoons butter
3 medium size onions, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Place lentils and water in a saucepan and bring to boil, then cover and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Add burghul, cover then cook for further 25 minutes or until lentils and burghul are well done, adding more water if necessary.
In the meantime, melt butter in a frying pan then sauté onions over medium heat until they turn golden brown. Stir frying pan contents and remaining ingredients into lentils, then cook for a further 3 to 5 minutes. Serve hot.
Note: pickles and hot peppers usually accompany the dish.
Lentil and Meat Stew–Yakhnat ‘Adas/Serves 8
During the cold winter months mother often prepared this hearty dish. The tomatoes were from our homemade canned supply and the onions, garlic and potatoes were from those kept semi-fresh in our earth cellar.
4 tablespoons butter
1/2-pound beef, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 medium size onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed
6 cups water
4 medium potatoes, peeled and diced into 3/4-inch cubes
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Melt butter in a saucepan, then add beef and sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add onion, garlic and hot pepper; then stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, cover then cook over medium heat until meat and lentils are well-done, adding more water if necessary. Serve hot with cooked rice.
Dandelion-Lentil Soup/Serves 10-12
When preparing this soup on our farm, often the dandelion was replaced by other available greens.
1 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed
9 cups water
4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
1 bunch dandelion (about 1 pound), thoroughly washed and chopped
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon black pepper
Place lentils and water into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes.
In the meantime, heat oil in a frying pan and sauté onion, garlic, hot pepper and ginger over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Transfer frying pan contents to the lentils. Stir in remaining ingredients and bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Serve hot.