The Food of Venezuela and Arab Moorish Cooking
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
To complement its scenic landscape which boasts tropical lowlands, superb beaches, and majestic snow-capped mountains, Venezuela is the home of a fascinating array of fruits and vegetables. Using these with meats and a variety of spices, the multicultural inhabitants of this South American land have developed a diverse, exciting and delectable cuisine (with influences of Arab Moorish cooking) known as the food of Venezuela. Today, this home of a melting pot of peoples has a rich and sublime kitchen – a culinary world somewhat different from those of the neighboring lands. The towering Andes Mountains and the Amazon jungles have kept Venezuela separated from the surrounding countries and, hence, it has developed its own types of food.
Historically, the coastal subtropical rain forests frightened the early Conquistadors for a time. However, it did not stymie for long their eagerness to discover the mythical El Dorado – a haunting fairy tale city that had mesmerized these early Spanish conquerors. They fought and overwhelmed the hostile coastal Indians, then penetrated inland, but they did not find the goal of their dreams. Instead, they found a sea of lofty mountains with wild rivers descending to fertile valleys. Here, they discovered that all types of fruits and vegetables could flourish – from tropical plants to crops which required colder climates. In this awe-inspiring land, they settled and with the artful combination of the many fruits and vegetables developed their own cuisine.
Unlike Mexico and Peru, Venezuela had no great Indian civilization to form the base of its kitchen. However, the original inhabitants of the country had a number of their own unique foods. When the Conquistadors in the early 16th century began to settle the land, they incorporated these dishes into their cuisine which, itself, was heavily influenced by the Moors. As the years slipped by, other ethnic groups that came to the country brought with them their own culinary specialties. A number of these crept into the Venezuelan kitchen, especially those from the other Latin American countries. Hence, with a base of Indian and Moorish influenced Spanish cooking, embellished by Chinese, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Peruvian and German, the modern Venezuelan kitchen is a world of culinary delights.
when the Spaniards landed in the New World, they found that the Indians in the Western Hemisphere cultivated maize or corn which was unknown to the Europeans of that age. Columbus took this cereal back to Europe and in the ensuing centuries it became the world’s second most plentiful grain, only surpassed by rice.
Maize formed the basis of the great Aztec and Inca civilizations and is still the preferred grain in Central and South America. In Venezuela, the Indians made a cornbread which is called arepa. It is the country’s most original specialty and is eaten in great quantitates by almost all the inhabitants. In its plain form, it is prepared from corn flour, salt, and water, and is rather tasteless. Nevertheless, this primitive Indian bread can be enhanced and made delicious in many ways. It is very tasty when cheese, eggs, and spices are added to the dough which is then made into small patties or cylinders and fried. However, it is at its best when served hot stuffed with various types of cheeses.
Arepas, which daily grace the Venezuelan table, are only one type of food made from corn flour. Cachapas, fried in pancake form and filled with cheese or meat; empanadas, cheese or meat-filled turnovers; tequeños, cylindrical fried delicacies stuffed with white cheese; and hallacas, a combination of cornmeal, meat, vegetables, and spices, are corn dishes almost as equally popular. In the towns and cities, and especially the countryside, they are more sought after than hamburgers and hot dogs in North America.
In the humble country or village homes where the traditional foods are still on the everyday menu, guasacaca, a semi-hot salad-relish eaten with meats; parrilla criolla, marinated beef cooked over charcoal; herido and sancocho, both meat or fish and vegetable stews, are all an everyday fare. Along the seacoast where the creatures of the oceans are plentiful, the homemaker expands the family’s menu to include: sopas de pascados, seafood soups; pescado en escabeche, a pickled fish dish of Moorish origin introduced by the Spaniards; and countless other seafood.
Yet, overshadowing all these dishes throughout the country is pabellón, the king of Venezuelan food. The national dish of the country, it is the favorite of both rich and poor. Made from meat, rice and black beans and served with arepas, it combines the food of the Indians, Moors, and Spaniards. Whether served in the primitive jungle huts or in the villas on the cool mountain plateaus or the mansions of the wealthy in Caracas, one of the most sophisticated cities in the world, pabellón is Venezuela’s food par-excellence.
The black beans included in this dish are often served, especially in the homes of the peasants and city laborers, by themselves as the main course. the people are so enamored with this dish that they call it caviar criollo (native caviar).
No traveler to Venezuela should return without sapling black beans and some fo the other dishes of the people in that green-carpeted land. In the immense diversity of foods, one is sure to find a few which will leave a pleasant culinary memory. On the other hand, if a lover of fine foods cannot travel to that South American land, these few dishes will give a tantalizing insight into the foods of Venezuela.
Guasacaca – Avocado Salad
Serves 6 to 8
4 medium avocados, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch cubes
2 medium tomatoes, cut into 1/4 -inch cubes
3/4 cup chopped green onions
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped into small pieces
1 small hot pepper, very finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
Place the avocados, tomatoes, green onions and eggs in a salad bow, then gently toss and set aside.
In a small bowl, mix the remaining ingredients and pour evenly over the vegetables, then gently toss just before serving.
Note: Usually served with grilled meat.
Arepas Fritas – Fried Corn Patties
Makes about 40 patties
3 cups of corn flour
1/2-pound cream cheese
1/2 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
oil for frying
Place all the ingredients except the oil in a food processor and process into a dough, then form into walnut-size balls and flatten into 1/4 -inch thick patties.
In a frying pan, place the oil to 1/2 -inch thickness and heat, then fry the patties until they turn light brown, turning them over once, and drain on paper towels.
Note: Excellent when served as snacks.
Espinacas con Huevos – Spinach with Eggs
Serves 4
2 packages spinach (10 oz. each), washed and chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cans anchovies (50 g. each), mashed with its oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
4 eggs
Place the spinach in a pot of boiling water and cook over medium heat for 4 minutes, then place in a strainer and squeeze out the excess water.
In a frying pan, heat the oil, then add the spinach, anchovies, coriander leaves, garlic and pepper, and stir-fry over medium heat for 8 minutes.
Transfer to a flat serving plate and set aside but keep warm.
In a frying pan, melt the butter, then fry the eggs until they are done, turning them over once.
Place evenly over the spinach and serve hot.
Cachapas – Corn Pancakes
The first time I ate cachapas was at a roadside stop near Caracas. Wrapped around pieces of cheese, they were so tasty that they left a lasting memory.
2 cups fresh or defrosted frozen corn kernels
1/2 cup flour
1 cup milk
4 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
oil for frying
Place all the ingredients except the oil in a food processor and process into a batter, then set aside.
Lightly brush a thick frying pan with oil and heat, then spread about 3 tablespoons of the batter and fry over medium heat until the pancake turns light brown, turning it over once.
Repeat the procedure until the batter is finished, then serve hot.
Note: May be served as bread with the meal or as snacks wrapped around pieces of feta cheese.
Sancocho – Chicken Stew
Serves 6 to 8
In Venezuela, all types of meat and tropical fruits and vegetables such as apio, cassava, plantain and yam are utilized when making different versions of this stew. However, in the following recipe vegetables which are readily available in North America are used.
4 tablespoons butter
2 pounds chicken, cut into about 2-inch square pieces
2 medium onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 medium carrot, scraped and chopped into small pieces
1 medium potato, peeled and chopped
1 cup chopped turnip
1 cup chopped squash
1 cup chopped cabbage
1 hot pepper, finely chopped
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
4 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
4 cups of water
1 small zucchini, about 6 inches, chopped
1 green banana, peeled and chopped
In a saucepan, melt the butter and sauté the chicken pieces over medium heat until they begin to brown, then add the onions and stir-fry for a further 10 minutes.
Add the remaining ingredients except for the zucchini and banana and bring to a boil, then cover and simmer over medium heat for 40 minutes.
Stir in the zucchini and banana and simmer for a further 20 minutes, then serve hot.
Arroz Blanco-White Rice
Serves 4
4 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 cup rice, rinsed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 cups of water
In a frying pan, melt the butter and sauté the onion over medium heat for 15 minutes, then add the garlic, rice, salt and pepper and stir-fry for a further 3 minutes.
Add the water and bring to a boil, then cover and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes.
Turn off the heat and allow the rice to cook in its own steam for another 20 minutes, then serve as a side dish with all types of stews or as part of the dish pabellón.
Caraotas Negras–Mashed Black Beans
Serves 4
1 1/2 cups black beans, washed and soaked overnight in 4 cups water
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1 hot pepper, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
Place the beans with their water in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then cover and cook over medium heat for 45 minutes.
In the meantime, in a frying pan, heat the oil and saute the onions over medium heat for 15 minutes, then stir in the garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper and stir-fry for a further 5 minutes.
Add the frying pan contents and the remaining ingredients to the beans, then simmer over low heat for 30 minutes or until the beans are well done.
Serve as is or mash and serve hot or cold.
Note: Very good as a side or main dish and as part of pabellón.
Pabellón-Shredded Steak and Beans
Serves 6
1-pound beef steak, cut into large pieces
1 recipe arroz blanco
1 recipe caraotas negras
6 tablespoons olive oil
6 eggs
2 unripe large bananas, peeled and cut in half, then slice 1/2 -inch thick
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 hot pepper, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
In a saucepan, place the meat and cover with water and bring to a boil, then cover and cook over medium heat for 1 3/4 hours or until the meat is well cooked.
In the meantime, prepare 1 recipe of arroz blanco and 1 recipe of caraoctas negras, then set aside but keep warm.
In a frying pan, heat 4 tablespoons of the oil and fry the eggs, then remove and set aside but keep warm.
In the same oil, fry the bananas until they begin to brown, turning them over once, then remove and set aside but keep warm.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and sauté the onion over medium heat for 10 minutes.
In the meantime, remove the meat from the stock and stir in the stock into the caraotas negras, then shred the meat pieces with a fork and add to the onion.
Stir in the remaining ingredients to the meat and onions, then stir-fry for 15 minutes over medium heat.
Arrange each table plate with the rice in the center, covered with a portion of the meat mixture and topped by a fried egg.
Ring the rice with caraotas negras and top with a few pieces of fried bananas, then serve immediately.
Note: Instead of 6, a meal can be prepared to serve 8 by adding 2 more eggs and a little more oil for frying.
Torta Criolla de Queso-Egg and Cheesecake
6 eggs
1/2-pound cream cheese
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup slivered almonds
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
Place all ingredients in a food processor, then process into a batter.
Pour evenly into a well-greased 8 x 12 -inch pan and bake in a 400oF preheated oven for 20 minutes, then chill in a refrigerator before serving.
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