The Legacy of Islamic Textiles in Al-Andalus

posted on: Jul 16, 2025

By: Katie Beason / Arab America Contributing Writer

The Arrival of the Umayyads

The Umayyads arrived to the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th CE, forming the Al-Andalus region of the Islamic empire. They brought with them Islam, and the Arabic language, and the textiles of the Persian and Syrian courts. These aesthetic values very quickly became the standard for “good taste” in the prominent households on the peninsula. Such aesthetics included the rich colors from Lebanon and beyond, as well as the intricate tapestries and indulgent silks. The Islamic influence over Al-Andalus textiles endures throughout Western Mediterranean culture to this day.

Silkworms from Syria

The Qaysis tribal confederation of Syria learned the cultivation of silkworms from China, and in bringing the product to Al-Andalus, the demand skyrocketed. This led to the unique creation of Nasrid Granada silk, a unique cloth made of syncretic craftsmanship and raw materials. “It’s quality was known beyond its borders,” writes Ana M. Carreño Leyva of the Andalusian Public Foundation. “There was nowhere in the whole of the Mediterranean, from East to West, where it was not considered the most precious material in luxury settings.” This luxury would not have been possible without the Islamic empire and its emphasis on traveling the world for the purpose of gaining knowledge. 

Left: 13th century Al-Andalusian textile, The Met, Open Access API | Right: 14th century Al-Andalusian textile, The Met, Open Access API

Tiraz from the Umayyads 

The Umayyads of Cordoba introduced Al-Andalus to the ṭirāz industry, a type of vibrant patterned silk used in tapestries and clothing. While the most desirable tiraz came primarily from the East, this began to change as various groups in the Islamic empire, including the Umayyads sought to assert their sovereignty within the empire. According to Eneko Lopez-Marigorta, one avenue for aesthetic distinction was the ṭirāz. “The luxury fabrics produced by the state institution of ṭirāz became a prominent symbol of sovereignty,” he writes, “encouraging the Umayyads of al-Andalus… to create their own ṭirāz workshop.” The Egyptian influence on the bands bordering tapestries was particularly prominent, and remains an aesthetic feature to this day.

Dyes from the East

The expansiveness of the Islamic empire also introduced a variety of dyes, without which Mediterranean materials would be unrecognizable. Deep indigos originated first from Japan, and entered the Islamic empire through trade, while brilliant red from rose madder same from South Asia and Egypt. The Umayyads also introduced shades of blue and yellow to Al-Andalus. Murex or Tyrian purple, a shell-based dye with a labor-intensive production process, became a status symbol across Europe that endured until the manufacturing of synthetic dyes. It was once worth three times its weight in gold, and today, still sells for thousands of dollars per gram.  It likewise became a significant status symbol in Al-Andalus, reserved for only the most wealthy. 

Textiles in Trade

The Islamic empire’s territory was so significant that the use of consistent currency was nearly impossible. Instead, silks and textiles became a recognized medium of trade between merchants. Silk was lighter to travel with, held value itself for trade, and its quality gave it a universal value, as opposed to the relative value of stamped coins.

The lampas weave from Baghdad was so valuable in the 12th C, it even spawned a market for counterfeits in Al-Andalus. These counterfeit weaves later morphed into a textile industry of its own, which became a trade opportunity across the empire.

Lastly, the extensiveness of the textile trade network created syncretic religious symbolism in Al-Andalus textiles. Products from the royal workshops of the Nasrid Emirate of Granada included pseudo-coptic epigraphy, Arabic calligraphy, and Catholic symbolism.

Left: 19th century Spanish carpet, The Met, Open Access API | Right: 19th century Toreador cape from Iberia, The Met, Open Access API

Modern Manifestations

[TEXT, include phrase “Al-Andalus textiles,” Mantillas head scarf, tatreez patterns, dyes, Latin American textiles]

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