The Soups that I Cherish
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
Wholesome, tasty and simple to prepare, Arab soups have been on the everyday menu of the housewife since the dawn of history. With very little cost, even peasants and laborers, throughout the ages, have been able to enjoy these healthy and nutritious broths. For centuries, generation after generation of the toiling masses have been sustained by these peasant soups. Affordable to all classes in society, they have nourished mankind in every country of the world since the dawn of time.
The people of the countryside have always been fond of their unsophisticated ed delectable soups. My parents, having immigrated from Syria to western Canada in the early 1920s, through the Great Depression, survived and raised a healthy family by consuming of these peasant soups, developed in their land of origin. When our neighbors found great difficulties in finding enough food to sustain themselves, we always had our delightful soups.
Even in times of extreme hardship, such as in 1937 when a severe drought encompassed the lands of southwest Saskatchewan, my parents were able to cope. Broad beans, chickpeas and lentils, grown in our hand-watered garden in summer and dried in winter, along with garden greens and a few chickens, kept us well-fed and healthy. As the basis for many types of savory soups, they graced our table day after day. Even after many years, I can still visualize pots of simmering beans, chickpeas and lentils defusing their enticing aroma.
Often, we relished our nutritious soups as the main course. At other times, they whetted our appetite for the meal to come. Many of these easy to prepare soups were of the tasty and wholesome variety, and made excellent one-dish meals. On numerous occasions, we enjoyed them as snacks, especially as a late evening treat. In the cold winter days we even consumed them for breakfast, and strange as it may sound, they were excellent as a recuperative after a night of festivity – a rare happening in those lean years.
In the ensuing years, as I travelled the countries of the world, I gathered in my treasury of soup dishes a great number of savory soups. When inviting friends to my feast dinners – meals that I enjoyed preparing, I always included one of these soups. As time passed, I discarded many of my recipes and only kept those that I truly relished. These I developed to my own taste, adding the herbs and spices that I thought made them more appetizing.
The ancients believed that these herbs and spices in the broth, besides enriching the soup, stimulated the appetite, helped in the circulation of the blood, alleviated rheumatic disorders and eased diabetic problems. Nevertheless, even if these claims may be only myths, these hearty and nourishing concoctions make an appetizing and gratifying meal.
Hot vegetarian peasant-style soups, not only satisfy hunger but, with very little cost, give warmth, pleasure and excitement. On the other hand, cold soups, especially in the hot lands, provide a refreshing midday meal or snack.
Both types are simple to prepare and, in many cases, turn out to be a gourmet’s delight. A basic item on the menu of peasants worldwide, they are a healthy necessity of life. I agree with the skilled chef Escoffier who, according to K.S. Nelson in The Yogurt Cookbook, has stated: “Soup puts the heart at ease, calms down the violence of hunger, eliminates the tension of the day, and awakens and refines the appetite.” Of course, he could very well have added that soup also nourishes the body and helps to keep away afflictions.
As for myself, I have taken these words to heart, during my meanderings throughout the world. After travelling, for many years, through innumerable countries and trying their soups, I have found that the following ten, prepared to my taste, are the ones that I most cherish
Hareera – Meat and Chickpea Soup
Serves 10 to 12
Known as the Queen of Moroccan soups, hareera is made from available vegetables and meats, and spiced to taste. A very nourishing soup, it is at times, for the Moroccan poor, the only meal of the day.
4 tablespoons butter
1/2-pound lamb or beef, cut into small pieces
2 medium sized onions, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
1 can chickpeas (19 oz. 540 ml.)
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1/2 cup lentils, rinsed
9 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons powdered ginger
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup rice
4 tablespoons lemon juice
In a large saucepan, melt butter then sauté meat over medium heat for 10 minutes.
Add the onion, garlic and coriander leaves, then stir-fry for further 10 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients except the rice and lemon juice then bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 40 minutes. Stir in rice and cook for further 20 minutes, then stir in lemon juice and serve immediately.
Note: For an exotic taste, serve with an accompanying plate of fresh dates.
Shawrbat ‘Adas Ma’a Ruzz – Lentil and Rice Soup
Serves 8
If desired, after this soup from the Greater Syria area is cooked, it can be puréed in a blender, then the coriander and lemon juice added.
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup split lentils
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
Pinch of saffron
8 cups boiling water
4 tablespoons rice, rinsed
2 tablespoons very finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Heat oil in a saucepan then sauté onions until they begin to brown. Add garlic and stir-fry for further 3 minutes, then add the remaining ingredients, except coriander leaves and lemon juice. Bring to boil then cover and cook over medium heat for 40 minutes or until lentils are tender adding more water if necessary. Remove from heat then stir in coriander leaves and lemon juice and serve.
Labaneeya – Yogurt Soup
Serves 6
When cooking this Syrian/Lebanese soup, precautions must be taken in order that it does not curdle or separate. This is done by gently stirring in one direction until it comes to a gentle boil.
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups plain yogurt
3 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons dried mint
Place eggs, yogurt and water in a saucepan then stir until well blended. Place over medium heat then stir gently until mixture comes to boil. Reduce heat to very low.
Melt butter in a frying pan then add garlic, salt, and mint. Sauté over medium heat until garlic turns golden brown then stir garlic mixture into yogurt sauce. Remove from heat, then serve hot.
White Almond and Garlic Soup – Sopa de Ajo Blanco
Serves about 6
Some food historians consider this cold soup, typical of Malaga, to be possibly the original Moorish version of gazpacho.
1/4 loaf white bread, crust removed
3/4 cup blanched pulverized almonds
6 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups water
1/2 pound seedless white grapes
Place bread in a bowl then cover with water. Allow to stand for 2 minutes then with hands, squeeze the water out. Place the squeezed bread and the remaining ingredients, except the grapes, in a food processor, then process for a minute. Transfer to a serving bowl, then chill in a refrigerator for at least 12 hours. Stir in grapes and serve.
Fish Soup – Laksa Penang
Serves about 8
In Malaysia, I often enjoyed this soup available in peoples’ restaurants.
1/2-pound thin noodles
1 1/2-pounds fish fillet, cut into large pieces
6 cups water
1 large onion, chopped
1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon shrimp paste
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons shredded cucumbers
4 tablespoons shredded lettuce
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion
Cook noodles per instructions on package, then drain and place in a large bowl. Set aside.
Place fish and water in a saucepan, then bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes. Remove fish with a slotted spoon, then shred. Reserve water in the saucepan.
In the meantime, place onion, hot pepper, garlic, tomato paste, shrimp paste, ginger and salt in blender, then blend into paste. Add paste to reserved fish water in saucepan, then bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 8 minutes, then pour the saucepan contents over the noodles. Stir in fish, then sprinkle with the remaining ingredients and serve immediately.
Chickpea Soup – Leblabi
Serves about 8
Traveling throughout Tunisia, often while enjoying my morning coffee, I usually saw people on their way to work relishing this soup for breakfast.
1 1/2 cups chickpeas, washed, then soaked overnight in 10 cups water, mixed with 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 hot pepper, finely chopped
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon ground caraway seeds
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
Croutons
Place chickpeas with their water in a saucepan, then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over medium heat for 1 1/2 hours or until chickpeas are soft and tender. Add remaining ingredients, except croutons, then cook over medium heat for further 10 minutes. Serve in individual bowls with each person adding croutons to taste.
Pea Soup – Soupe aux Pois
Serves about 10
The most well-known soup in Canada, this dish is one of the few truly Canadian invented foods – especially famed in the province of Quebec, its original home.
1 1/2 cups dried peas, soaked overnight and drained
1/2-pounds meat with some fat, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 cups finely chopped celery with leaves
1 cup finely chopped carrots
6 cloves garlic, crushed
3 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons dried savory
1 teaspoon black pepper
8 cups water
Place all ingredients in a saucepan then bring to boil. Cook over low heat for about 2 hours or until peas, meat and carrots are very well cooked, stirring a few times and adding more water if necessary.
Beet and Cabbage Soup – Borscht
Serves about 8
There are numerous versions to this famous Eastern European one meal dish. This is my version.
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2-pound beets, thoroughly washed, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
4 cups water
3 cups beef or chicken broth
1 medium potato, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 medium sweet pepper, finely chopped
2 cups shredded cabbage
l small hot pepper, de-seeded and finely chopped
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
3/4 teaspoon cumin
3/4 teaspoon powdered mustard
1/2 teaspoon allspice
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Heat oil in a large pot, then sauté onions and garlic over medium/low heat for 10 minutes. Add beets and water then bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes. Add broth and remaining vegetables then
bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 1 1/2 hours or until vegetables are cooked, adding more water if necessary. Add the salt, pepper, cumin, mustard and allspice then cover and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and serve hot.
Corn Soup – Sopa de Elote
Serves 6 to 8
This Mexican soup is simple to prepare but very tasty.
4 cups fresh or frozen corn, thawed
1 small hot pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped green onion
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons butter
4 cups milk
2 cups water
4 tablespoons grated cheese
Place corn, hot pepper, green onions and salt in a food processor, then process into a paste and set aside.
Melt butter in a saucepan, then stir-fry corn paste over medium heat for 3 minutes. Stir in milk and water. Bring to boil then simmer on low heat for 25 minutes, stirring a few times. Serve piping hot with each diner adding cheese to taste.
Cold Vegetable Soup – Gazpacho Alentejano
Serves about 8
Gazpacho is a soup found throughout the Iberian Peninsula. This version is found in Portugal’s Alentejo province.
4 cups tomato juice
2 medium tomatoes, chopped into very small pieces
1 medium cucumber, chopped into very small pieces
1 cup finely chopped green onion
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
1/2 small hot pepper, seeded and very finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
2 cups water
4 tablespoons olive oil
1/4-pound beef sausage, fried and cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup croutons
Thoroughly combine in a serving bowl all ingredients, except olive oil, sausage, lemon juice and croutons then chill in a refrigerator.
Just before serving stir in olive oil, sausage and lemon juice.
Serve the croutons separately, with each person adding a portion to taste.