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Craving: Middle Eastern Food, from Savory Kebabs to Aromatic Spices, Perfectly Puffed Pitas and More

posted on: Aug 6, 2019

SOURCE: CHICAGO TRIBUNE

BY: LOUISA CHU & OTHERS

The Tribune’s Food & Dining team is munching on Middle Eastern food this month, filling up on freshly baked pita, silky spreads of hummus and crispy bites of falafel. Follow along throughout the month of August — we’ll share a new dish each weekday.

Labneh from Cedar Palace
Labneh from Cedar Palace. (Grace Wong / Chicago Tribune)

When I learned that yogurt could be eaten in a savory way, I felt like the entire world had suddenly opened up to me. This soft, ultra-strained yogurt is common in Middle Eastern cuisine and for good reason — it offers a lightness to heavy dishes, a cool balm to spicy flavors, and a creaminess that doesn’t overpower. At Cedar Palace, the labneh ($4.50) is served with a generous glug of olive oil, a scattering of mint and served with pita bread. It’s rich and thick and perfect to pair with whatever dish you’re ordering from the restaurant, whether it’s a lentil soup or a combination plate loaded up with meats. 655 W. Armitage Ave., 312-643-0933, cedarpalacechicago.com

Grace Wong

Fahsa lamb at Shibam Restaurant
Fahsa Lamb at Shibam Restaurant. (Nick Kindelsperger / Chicago Tribune)

Order the fahsa lamb ($13.99), and you’ll get screaming hot black bowl of stew that bubbles furiously for minutes after hitting the table. (It reminds me of how Korean soups are often dished out at a fierce boil.) Fahsa is a traditional Yemeni dish featuring stewed lamb in a broth bulked out with okra and laced with fenugreek. It also has a legit heat, so even after you let the stew cool, watch out for the heat from the chiles. You could dig in with a spoon, or you could use some of the restaurant’s wonderful khubz bread to scoop up a mouthful. 4807 N. Elston Ave., 773-977-7272, shibam.com.

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— Nick Kindelsperger

Za’atar mana’eesh at Libanais
Za’atar mana’eesh at Libanais ($2.75). (Nick Kindelsperger / Chicago Tribune)

Mana’eesh is a large circular flatbread topped with any number of ingredients and cut into triangles, which honestly doesn’t sound too far off from a pizza. But instead of tomato sauce and cheese, toppings usually focus on olive oil and some dynamic spice blend. That’s definitely the case with the za’atar mana’essh ($2.75) at Libanais. Za’atar is a spice blend popular in the Middle East that often contains herbs like thyme, sesame seeds and ground sumac. When sprinkled generously on the flatbread, it lends every bite an aromatic nuttiness, with a fascinating citrus note. 3300 W. Devon Ave., Lincolnwood, 224-470-1515, www.libanaischicago.com

— Nick Kindelsperger

Masabacha hummus at Galit
Masabacha hummus, defined by whole chickpeas, and pita by chef Zachary Engel at Galit ($12). (Louisa Chu / Chicago Tribune)

James Beard award-winning chef Zachary Engel opened Galit just four months ago. The local, seasonal Middle Eastern and Israeli immigrant-inspired restaurant earned three stars from Phil Vettel, I think before the signs even went up on the sun-drenched storefront. Engel says their brisket hummus has become the signature in the Lincoln Park area. For him personally, though, it’s the mushroom. I suggest starting with his masabacha hummus, defined by whole chickpeas swimming in a luminous pool of golden olive oil. Tear off a piece of warm house-baked pita to swipe through a cloud of green herbed tehina sesame paste and a generous sprinkle of smoky red Aleppo pepper. You will understand why this silky spread is the standard to which all others should be compared. $12. 2429 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-360-8755, galitrestaurant.com

— Louisa Chu

Falafel from Taste of Lebanon
Falafel from Taste of Lebanon ($5.19). (Grace Wong / Chicago Tribune)

I can’t count how many times I’ve gone to Taste of Lebanon only to realize I didn’t bring cash. But the walk to and from the ATM only ramps up the anticipation of getting my hands on some of the crispy balls of falafel ($5.19) that this neighborhood spot is known for. The patties are made with ground chickpeas, herbs and liberally spiced before they’re plopped in the deep fryer, emerging with a perfectly crunchy brown crust and a soft pale-green middle. The falafel is served on a bed of lettuce, tomato, cucumber, radish, a few pickled peppers and a side of tahini. Warm pita bread comes separately, wrapped in aluminum foil. You can also get the falafel in a wrap with hummus or baba ganoush. 1509 W. Foster Ave., 773-334-1600

— Grace Wong