The Hidden Spanish Resort of Gandia
By: Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
As far as the eye could see, orange and lemon groves stretched in all directions. The perfume diffusing from their blossoms seemed to lull us into a dream-like world of pleasure as we made our way from Valencia to Gandia – Spain’s hidden Mediterranean resort.
We were still intoxicated with this subtle aroma when we found ourselves driving on that town’s main attractive tree-lined boulevard. On one side there was a 6 km (4mi) long and 100 m (328 ft) wide beach of clean golden sand edged by clear water, and on the other high-rise after high-rise. There was little doubt that the tourist entrepreneurs had taken full advantage of the ideal sands.
A town of approximately 75,000, Gandia is situated 67 km (41 mi) from Valencia and 116 km (72 mi) from Alicante. It is one of Spain’s many fine seaside tourist spots and the largest resort in the province of Valencia. The town is also an important cultural, economic, and administrative center for 29 villages in the La Safor County – a fertile valley watered by the Serpis and Bernisa Rivers.
Old Gandia, about 3 km (2mi) from the new sea-side resort, first became important during the Moorish era. Its name is believed to be derived from the Arabic and (candy) or ghaniya (rich) – some 20 villages beyond its outskirts also still carry their Arabic names. In addition, the endless orange and lemon groves along with an excellent irrigation system are remnants from the country’s Moorish past. Traveling through this rich countryside, one can feel that these remains still carry an infectious aura from that romantic age.
The Christians captured Gandia from the Moors in 1240 A.D., but it was not until the 15th century that it became well-known. The Borjas family who were outstanding leaders in the political and religious fields – one becoming a patron saint of the city – were responsible for making it famous. They transformed the city into an important educational, religious, and cultural center.
Most of the older town’s important monuments date from their times. The Ducal Palace, the home of the Borjas which now houses a small museum; the collegiate Church, a Gothic structure erected on the site of a former mosque; the Convent of Santa Clara; and the former University of Gandia all go back to their era.
Like a good number of Spain’s Mediterranean coastal towns, the city managed to adapt itself to modern times. In the last few decades, its tourist services and facilities have been so well developed. Of course, this was helped by its pleasant year-round temperature – 30 to 35 C (86 to 97 F) in summer and a usual average of 18 C (64 F) in winter.
Its beach is so large that even in the busy summer months, a visitor never gets the feeling of being crowded. The sands gently slope down to, then continue under the water, giving a great sense of security to bathers. Hugging the beaches are endless hotels and apartment buildings towering skyward drawing more and more visitors from as far away as North America.
At the end of Gandia’s impressive beach in the harbor of El-Grau – once the most important fruit exporting port in Europe. At the time of our visit, it was always crowded with yachts and fishing boats which are mostly used for leisure. However, El-Grau is still an important fishing port. At nightfall, it is a splendid sight to watch dozens of boats returning with their catches. A visitor can rent one of these small ships at a modest rate to fish or just to sail the usually calm sea.
For us during our stay in Gandia, there was much to see and do. When we tired of the beach, there was the sea, a great place to sail or fish. At other times we would take an excursion through the fruit-laden countryside savoring its Moorish atmosphere. But we would always return before evening to dine and enjoy the nightlife.
Unlike other small resorts, Gandia has much to offer in the field of entertainment. There are a good number of fairs and festivals held throughout the year. A celebration at the end of September in honor of Francisco de Borja, the patron saint of the city; the Fallas, a March festival dedicated to St. Joseph; between March and April – Semana Santa, the Easter Holy week celebration; the festival of the Virgin del Carmen in July; and above all the tourist week held in the middle of August with much entertainment, music festivals and food competitions are some of the exciting events held in or around the city.
Gandia has a reputation for great activity after dark. Nightlife can be found in most parts of town. Bars, dance halls, discos, nightclubs, pubs, cafes, and restaurants are, in the main, located along the seaside avenue. A good many of these offer entertainment and some eating places feature the unique rich cooking of the Valencia region. Paella made with noodles and fideau, a delightful fish dish, the specialties of Gandia, are a number of the foods which a visitor should try.
One of our favorite gourmet stops was Mesón Gallego, a fine Galician restaurant offering hearty fish dishes. Almost every day, at a cost of from $10 to $25, we would dine on some of the finest fish dishes in Spain. At other eating places, many times, we enjoyed as a main course noodle paella, cooked with a number of different types of fish. For dessert, we always asked for the Gandia specialty – a cake topped with ice cream.
What I remember most about this comfortable resort are these meals after a full day on the sands or traveling through the enchanting countryside. Not known to many, we found that Gandia is a great place to spend some time, especially for families who are seeking a quiet and reasonably priced vacation.
