Yogurt: Our Most Perfect Medicinal Food on the Homestead
By Habeeb Salloum/Arab America Contributing Writer
The ancient Assyrians appreciated yogurt so much that they called it lebeny meaning ‘life’. The venerable yogis of India mixed yogurt with honey and called it the ‘food of the gods’. Cleopatra bathed in this milk product to give herself a clear and tender complexion and Genghis Khan fed it to his soldiers to give them courage. One of man’s earliest prepared foods, yogurt can claim few equals in the folklore of the medical and culinary arts.
Early in life I had become familiar with yogurt dishes on our homestead on the western prairies of Canada. From meals and snacks to lunches and all types of dishes containing yogurt our family’s culinary life seemed to revolve around that milk product. However, during that era of my life it was not my favourite food. That was to come later when I gained wisdom.
“Not again!” I thought to myself as I angrily opened my lunch bag. Mother had this day, as she had for a whole week, made us children arous bi labana (a type of sandwich made up of a yogurt paste spread generously on paper thin Arab bread, then rolled into a long cylinder shape). How I envied my schoolmates munching on neat white bread sandwiches. As I moved away to eat my lunch in a semi-hidden corner, I childishly resolved that when I grew up there would be no more arous bi labana for me.
Little did I know in those homesteading days, and in fact long thereafter that the yogurt that I once detested, is one of the healthiest foods known to mankind. My parents had brought with them from Syria a love for this delectable and nutritious dairy product, consumed in the Middle East since the dawn of civilization. Perhaps they did not know its many benefits, but they, as I do now, relished its taste. We ate it almost every day for breakfast and for snacks and I am now sure that this healthy food with a cultural and medical past was one of the reasons we children were rarely sick during our childhood years.
Modern nutritionists have established that yogurt’s reputation as an almost medicinal food is justified. It has been found that it contains a digestive enzyme which prolongs life. Humans naturally produce this enzyme in their childhood but it becomes deficient as they reach adulthood.
It has also been proved that besides all the healthful elements found in milk, yogurt contains a teeming load of bacteria – about 100 million per gram. These multiply in the intestines and, by getting rid of the accumulated germs, relieve stomach ulcers, dysentery, and promote excellent digestion. When we children had stomach ailments on the farm our mother’s remedy was always yogurt. As far as I can remember, it usually worked!
Much more easily digestible than milk, yogurt is ideal for the aged, pregnant women, children and the sick. In addition, it is believed that regular eaters of this fermented milk tend to have clear skin and find no problem in enjoying a good night’s sleep. Also, in a recent study, Japanese researchers have found that eating traditional yogurt reduces the malodorous compounds that cause bad breath.
All types of milk, ranging from reindeer to cow, can be utilized in making yogurt. However, the fat and nutrient values vary depending on whether it is prepared from cream; whole or partly skimmed or skimmed milk; and if it includes additives like fruits or syrups. On the average 100 grams of regular plain yogurt contain 77 calories; and 7.1 g carbohydrates, 5.3 g protein, 3 g fat, 229 mg potassium, 181 mg calcium, 142 mg phosphorus, 75.5 mg sodium, and vitamins Bl, B2 and B12.
For those wishing to cut down on the amount of fat, cholesterol and calories in their diets, yogurt made from skimmed milk is a godsend. In preparing meals, brands labelled low-fat and low-cholesterol can be substituted for mayonnaise, sour cream or similar products. This will constitute a tremendous improvement in their diets – at times working wonders.
Besides it nutritious value, yogurt is a marvellously versatile and adaptable food. It adds richness, flavour and an appetizing aroma to a myriad of dishes. The possibilities of cooking with this tangy, cultured milk are infinite. It blends well with cheese, eggs, grains, most types of meats, fruits, vegetables, and makes an excellent marinade. Delicious when flavoured with syrups, nuts, herbs and spices, it enhances and is enhanced by other foods. The gastronomic repertoire of this so-called `milk of eternal life’ is endless.
Yogurt
The rudimentary process of preparing yogurt followed today isis centuries old.
2 quarts milk
4 tablespoons plain yogurt
Place milk in a pot and bring to boil, then lower heat and simmer uncovered for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl. Allow to cool to lukewarm temperature. (You will know that milk is cool enough if your finger in the milk can stand the count of ten.)
Thoroughly stir in yogurt and cover, then wrap with a heavy towel and allow to stand at room temperature for 8 hours.
Refrigerate overnight before serving or use in preparation of food.
Note: Always set aside part of the yogurt for the next batch.
Yogurt Dip
Great when served as a snack food with crackers or Arab (pita) bread.
4 cups plain yogurt
1 teaspoon sumac (can be purchased from Middle Eastern stores)
1/2 teaspoon dry mint
1/4 teaspoon salt
l/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Place yogurt in a cheese cloth bag then tie with a string. Suspend over a receptacle and allow to stand overnight.
Combine remaining ingredients, except oil, in a bowl, then set aside.
Place yogurt on a platter, then spread spice mixture evenly over yogurt. Sprinkle with oil just before serving.
Cucumber in Yogurt – Khiyar bi Laban
serves 4 to 6
We often had this dish on a hot summer day for lunch, chilled in a pail hung above the water line in our well – our Depression years’ refrigerator.
2 cups plain yogurt
1 medium cucumber (6 to 8 inches), peeled and diced in very small pieces
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
Place all ingredients in a serving bowl then thoroughly combine. Chill then serve.
Burghul and Yogurt Appetizer – Kishkeh
Serves about 6
A simple dish favoured by both rich and poor, especially in Damascus, kishkeh is delicious and healthy.
1/2 cup medium burghul, soaked for 10 minutes in warm water; then drained by squeezing out water through a strainer
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon finely crushed dried mint
4 tablespoons finely chopped peeled cucumber
salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil
Combine all ingredients, except coriander and olive oil then spread on a platter. Chill, then decorate with coriander and sprinkle with olive oil just before serving.
Yogurt And Eggplant Appetizer – Badhanjan Matabal bil Laban
Serves about 6
Yogurt enhances most dip/appetizers and sauces to which it is added. It gives them smooth and special tang.
1 medium eggplant, about 1 pound
1 cup plain yogurt
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed mint
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander or parsley leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil
Place eggplant in an oven, then bake for about an hour or until thoroughly baked. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
Peel and place in a food processor, then add remaining ingredients, except coriander or parsley and olive oil. Blend into paste, then place on a platter. Decorate with coriander or parsley then sprinkle with the olive just before serving.
Yogurt-Potato Salad
Serves about 6
In my view, the use of yogurt jn this somewhat different than the usual salad gives it its uniqueness.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
1/2 small hot pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
3 large potatoes, about 1 pound, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
1 cup plain yogurt
Heat oil in a saucepan, then sauté onion over medium heat for 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, coriander leaves and hot pepper, then sauté for further few minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except yogurt then barely cover with water. Bring to boil, then cover. Cook over medium/low heat for 30 minutes or until potatoes are done then stir in yogurt and serve.
Labaniyya – Yogurt Soup
Serves 6
When cooking this Syrian/Lebanese soup, precautions must be taken in order that it does not curdle or separate. This is done by gently stirring in one direction until it comes to a gentle boil.
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups plain yogurt
3 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons dried crushed mint
Place eggs, yogurt and water in a saucepan then stir until well blended. Place over medium heat then stir gently until mixture comes to boil. Reduce heat to very low.
Melt butter in a frying pan then add garlic, salt, and mint. Sauté over medium heat until garlic turns golden then stir garlic mixture into yogurt sauce. Remove from heat, then serve hot.
Dumplings in Yogurt –Sheesh Barak
Serves about 8
During my youth when the cold winter months rolled around, a steaming hot bowl of Sheesh Barak diffusing its mouth-watering aroma through our kitchen, has left a lasting impression in my culinary world.
Dumplings
1 pound fresh or frozen dough, thawed
1 pound ground beef or lamb
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons pine nuts or slivered almonds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Yogurt sauce
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups plain yogurt
3 cups cold water
2 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons dried crushed mint
Form dough into 3/4 inch in diameter balls, then cover with a tea towel and allow to rest for 1 hour.
In the meantime, make a filling by stir-frying meat in butter until light brown, then add the remaining dumpling ingredients and stir-fry for 3 minutes.
Roll out dough balls to make circles 1/8 inch thick. Place 1 level teaspoon filling on each circle, then fold dough over filling and pinch edges to seal. Fold in half again to shape dumpling like a thimble and pinch to close. Place dumplings on a greased tray and lightly brown ln a 350° F preheated oven, turning them over once, then set aside.
To make sauce, place eggs and yogurt in a saucepan, then stir until well blended. Add cold water; then stir well. Cook over medium heat and gently stir in one direction until mixture comes to boil, then reduce heat to low.
Place butter in a small saucepan and melt then add the garlic, salt, and mint. Stir-fry over medium heat until garlic turns golden, then stir garlic mixture into yogurt sauce. Place dumplings in sauce, then cover and cook for 25 minutes over medium/low heat. Serve piping hot.
Yogurt Cake
Eaten alone or utilized as an ingredient in the preparation of other foods, yogurt is enjoyed worldwide by more people than any other dairy product.
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/2 cup whipping cream
4 eggs, beaten
1 cup sugar
2 cups flour
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Thoroughly combine yogurt, butter, cream, eggs and sugar then set aside.
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt into the yogurt mixture then stir to make batter. Place in a well-greased 8 by 11 inch baking pan and let stand for an hour.
Bake in a 3000 F preheated oven for about 1 hour or until toothpick inserted into center of cake comes out clean.
In the meantime, place honey and water in a pot; then bring to boil. Boil for about 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring few times then stir in lemon juice to make syrup. Remove from heat and set aside.
Remove cake from oven and allow to cool then turn over on to a serving platter. Spoon the syrup evenly over cake then serve warm.
Yogurt Drink
In the hot lands of North Africa, the preferred beverage to quench one’s thirst is similar to this yogurt drink.
4 cups plain yogurt
2 cups water
4 tablespoons melted honey
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
Freshly chopped mint leaves
Place all ingredients, except mint leaves, in a blender, then blend for 1 minute. Chill , then decorate with mint leaves before serving.
